The Pills!

Yes, we all know about pills—especially those of us with OCD. I can't find an acronym that could capture the look on our faces when we first spot pills on our brand new sweater or wrap after wearing it just once. That expensive cashmere wrap that cost a month's salary? Yeah, that's the one.

The unfortunate truth is that all fabrics pill: knit, acrylic, wool, cashmere, cotton, and polyester all pill from wear.

The soft texture of wool or knit fabrics causes them to pill more than the stiffer, smoother fabric of a polished cotton dress shirt. This is because the fibers used by soft and drapy fabrics are shorter than the longer fibers used to spin yarns for tightly woven fabrics like broadcloth or worsted wool. As a result, there are more tiny fibers that stick up above the surface of the fabric. Those tiny small fibers get lonely; they grab ahold of each other, hug, don't let go, and a pill is born waiting for the guillotine. The only way to keep a garment from pilling is not to use it.

Let's start with how to prevent pilling as much as possible through proper care. Always wash your garment according to the instructions on the care label. If the label says "Dry Clean Only," be sure to take it to a dry cleaner. If you prefer not to dry clean, you can hand wash the garment or use a washing machine set to the Delicate or Gentle cycle (some machines even have a Hand Wash option). 

Please keep in mind that I work with fabric every day and have a good understanding of how different fabrics react to water. Therefore, while I recommend hand washing, do so at your own discretion. 

Additionally, note that real leather and metallic threads should always be dry cleaned.

Any natural fabric will last longer if washed in cool water—specifically, water that feels cool to the touch, but not cold. Before washing, turn the garment inside out and use a dye-free detergent. For wool and silk, a gentle shampoo can be effective. I prefer to let my garments soak rather than allow them to wash against each other. In the final rinse for wool, I’ve even added conditioner. I continue to fill and refill my sink or container with running water until the rinse water runs clear.

Gently squeeze out as much water as possible from the clothing, then lay it flat on a towel. Roll the towel and the sweater from one edge, like a jelly roll. Squeeze along the roll to remove any additional water. Unroll the towel and lay the garment flat on a dry towel, shaping the body and sleeves of the sweater.

Once it's dry, I use an iron with a press cloth, or for certain fabrics, I hold the iron above the fabric, using steam instead of pressure to remove any wrinkles. Diapers or old linen napkins work great as press cloths. For everyday sewing, I prefer using a piece of silk chiffon. A steamer is also very effective; I hang the garment on a padded hanger while steaming it. I avoid hanging garments to dry, as the weight of the water can stretch the fabric.

As a side note, unrelated to pilling, here is a handy Martha Stewart trick for removing wrinkles from tablecloths or any fabric. Place the tablecloth on the table and use clothespins to attach weights to the corners and along each side. Mist the tablecloth lightly with water; as it dries, it will flatten out and the wrinkles will disappear.

You’ve tried everything, but the pills just keep being pills. I’ve tested every method I’ve discovered, and my favorite is the battery-operated sweater shaver shown in the blog post photo. While researching for this blog, I found a shaver I’ve never tried before (see the photo below from Amazon). For the best results, be sure to pull the fabric taut while using any method. I find that shaving garments can be quite meditative; many people do it while watching TV, making it possible to enjoy both activities at once.

Sweater combs and pumice-type blocks are easily found in craft stores or retailers like Target and Walmart. A disposable razor or straight razor can also be effective for removing pills. However, be cautious when using combs and stones, as I have experienced them pulling out fibers with enough force to create holes in the fabric due to breaks in the weave, especially with knits.

Keep in mind that when you use any method to remove pills, you are tugging at threads, which may be crucial to the garment's structure. Repeated shaving and wearing can eventually lead to holes, making it necessary to learn how to darn your clothing.

Acrylic mohair wraps can create unsightly pills that resemble white afros. To manage this, I use a rubble glove to brush the fibers in one direction, pick off the larger pills, and then press the fabric down with an iron. The results are satisfying. 

For cashmere and wool, I recommend taking the time to use a shaver. Whatever method you choose, be gentle as you are pulling out hair. 

I recently acquired a shaver that features coils, but I haven’t been impressed with its performance so far. I'll have to think of another use for it.

UPDATE 1/26/26: This incredible metal tool is a game changer for carpets and upholstery, effortlessly lifting away pet hair with ease.